Current

Note from Akuli:

To follow along, you need:

TODO: picture

What is current?

Akuli so, let's talk about what is current
Akuli to reiterate, voltage is electricity wanting to go from place A to place B, but not necessarily going
Akuli current is electrons actually moving somewhere
adder Current is, how much charge did get through past the resistance?
Akuli you don't necessarily need resistance to have current
Akuli it's just how much charge (that is, electrons) is moving
adder Sure.
adder OK.
Akuli a valid unit for current is electrons/second
Akuli the problem with that unit is that it is really small
Akuli like insanely small
Akuli so, you would need huge numbers to describe anything meaningful
Akuli ok?
adder So we count it as Coloumbs?
Akuli a coulomb is a big pile of electrons
Akuli a very big pile
Akuli so yes, we use coulombs/second
adder OK.
Akuli but in electronics, you don't usually say coulombs/second, you say amperes, which means the same thing
adder OK.
Akuli so, an ampere (abbreviated: A) is just a large number of electrons per second
Akuli ok?
adder OK.
Akuli like we discussed with voltage, this is inverted for historical reasons
Akuli so a positive amount of amperes from A to B actually means that electrons are traveling from B to A
Akuli this will probably become clear when we go actually measure the circuit again
adder OK.

Examples of currents

Akuli but first, i want to give you some kind of idea about what to expect
Akuli 1 ampere is a lot of current
Akuli your entire device may use 1 ampere if it's doing a lot
Akuli for example, a phone charger typically outputs just a few amps
adder So, usually we work in mA?
Akuli yeah
Akuli today i bought one for charging my phone in my car, and i think it said 2.2A on it
Akuli so if you're looking at an entire device, you may see a few amps
Akuli if you're looking at an individual component, expect mA or uA
adder OK.
Akuli (u = micro, one thousandth of a milli)
Akuli let's get even more concrete :)
Akuli so phone charger, 2.2 A
Akuli ok?
adder OK.
Akuli car engine starting: hundreds of amps for a short duration
Akuli you really need a lot :D
Akuli ok?
adder OK.
Akuli LED indicator light: somewhere between 1mA and 10mA, depending on type of LED and how bright you want the light to be
Akuli ok?
adder OK.
Akuli (those are not hard limits)

Power supply specifications

Akuli hmm, do i have more simple examples
Akuli let's actually find out what your power supply promises to deliver
Akuli unplug it from the wall and inspect it, there's a label that says what it's designed to output
adder Oh no.
adder Barely tucked it in.
adder Is this necessary?
Akuli not right now, but you will eventually want to know that when you run into it
Akuli i can send a pic of mine
adder Sure.
Lesson Image
Akuli sent a picture.
Akuli PRI (primary) is basically input and SEC (secondary) is basically output
adder OK.
Akuli so this one promises to deliever 300mA
Akuli this power supply is useful for a small device that doesn't need a lot of power
Akuli but 300mA wouldn't be enough to charge a laptop
Akuli laptop chargers usually say something like 3A or a bit more
adder I see.
Akuli voltage has to match too, of course
Akuli you generally want a power supply that has the same voltage and enough amps (more is fine, it just won't provide as much as it could)
Akuli ok?
adder The same as what?
Akuli the same as the device expects
adder OK.
Akuli for example, i can use this power supply with most guitar pedals, because guitar pedals are designed to take 9V power
Akuli (ignoring the fact that this power supply puts out way more than 9V if you don't have any load connected...)
Why does Akuli's "9V" power supply output more than 9 volts with no load?
adder How so?
Akuli why it outputs more than 9V with no load?
adder Yeah.
Akuli basically, the power supply is simple and dumb
Akuli the correct word is: unregulated
Akuli most power supplies adjust their output cleverly to hit a target voltage
adder I see.
Akuli this one does not, there's literally 6 parts inside the thing and no logic of any kind
adder :)
Akuli instead of "most", i should have said "most new"
Akuli this type of power supply used to be more common
Akuli digital devices don't like these, they like to assume the voltage is quite accurately what it should be
adder I see.
Akuli unregulated power supplies are also less efficient due to the simplistic design
Akuli so basically, for a number of reasons, you don't find these as much as you used to
Akuli ok?
adder OK.
Akuli now, we actually talked about current there
Akuli it's pretty much impossible to talk about electricity without talking about voltage and current
Akuli when i say "load", i really mean that some current is taken from the power supply
Akuli "no load" means current is zero
adder OK.
Akuli so even though current is today's topic, we have already discussed it before when we e.g. talked about measuring batteries
Akuli ok?
adder OK.

Measuring current

Note from Akuli:

At this point, adder has the LED-and-resistor setup from lesson 2.

Akuli enough talk, let's measure current :)
Akuli the first caveat i'll add: current is NOT between two points like voltage
Akuli current is THROUGH a thing, not between two things
Akuli so when you measure current, you connect the multimeter so that the thing you're measuring goes through the multimeter
Akuli it's more involved than just touching two points to read a voltage
Akuli ok?
adder OK.
Akuli let's do exactly that
Akuli disconnect the circuit at some point (doesn't matter where really)
adder Inside of PS is probably the easiest.
Akuli :DDDDDDDDD
adder That's not what you meant?
Akuli yeah, any point of the circuit you put together with alligator clips and such :)
Akuli don't mess with the 230V AC input side :D
adder OK, disconnected.
Akuli now, put the meter in current mode
adder A? mA? uA?
Akuli select A if unsure
Akuli you don't want to surprise the meter with too much current
adder OK.
Akuli in many meters, you would also need to change where the red probe is connected, in yours i think you don't need to
adder Says V Ohm mA uA
adder Where the red probe is right now.
Akuli ah, so it's all the same in yours
Akuli unusual, but i remembered it being like that :)
adder OK.
Akuli so, reconnect the circuit but so that the current travels through the meter
Akuli that is, black probe and red probe to the two things that are no longer connected to each other
adder Does the probe ordering matter?
Akuli try it :)
Note from Akuli:

At this point, adder has disconnected the red alligator clip from the LED's longer leg, and inserted the meter there.

adder gets weird current readings because the multimeter probe is plugged to the wrong connector in the multimeter
adder Just the sign flips, but I'm also measuring a different figure.
adder 0.22A vs ~0.3A
adder One of those is negative.
adder Also, led doesn't glow.
Akuli something weird is going on
Akuli what point did you disconnect?
adder Long leg.
adder Of LED.
Akuli so everything else is still the same, led(short leg) -> resistor -> alligator --> power supply negative?
adder Yeah, looks so to me.
Akuli meter should go between power supply positive and LED long leg
adder Yeah.
adder What is weird?
Akuli LED should glow, and 0.22A is way too much
Akuli it should be more like 0.006A
adder Well, I don't know. :)
Akuli hmm, walk me through the whole thing part by part, starting from the middle of the plug (power supply positive)
adder Wire from the inside to the gator -> gator -> LED long -> LED short -> resistor -> gator -> outside of PS.
adder But I reverted this as it wasn't working.
adder Otherwise there was a meter like you said in between.
adder LED now glows.
Akuli let's try again...
Akuli disconnect alligator from LED long leg, LED should turns off
adder OK.
Akuli connect that same alligator thing instead to one of the meter probes
Akuli then, touch the other probe to LED long leg
Akuli what happens?
adder 0.178A
Akuli and no LED glowing?
adder Nope.
Akuli your meter is doing something weird here
Akuli at least, that's my guess right now
Akuli try the mA setting of the meter
adder It's now showing 0.012A when I don't touch anything, just the one probe.
Akuli ahhhhh
Akuli i think you're touching something somewhere that you shouldn't
adder 5.6mA
adder LED works.
Akuli that's the reading :D
adder Touching it pretty much the same.
Akuli what exactly do you mean touching?
adder Like I said, this "port" on multimeter isn't designated "A".
adder Only "mA" and "uA".
adder There is a separate port that says 10A max.
Akuli ahhh yeah that's the one you should use with the "A" mode
Akuli that's why the meter was confused
adder >.>
Akuli you have a different meter than i remember?
adder Same meter we bought.
Akuli then i'm not remembering it properly :)
Akuli but yeah, now you're getting the correct reading
adder Getting 0.006 on different port.
Akuli 0.006A = 6mA
adder Yeah.
Akuli that's just the accuracy you're getting with that :)
Akuli the "10A max" one is great if you don't know how much current you're going to have
adder OK.
Akuli you're unlikely to get 10A out of a power supply anyway, so meter is probably happy with it
Akuli if you ever exceed the current, there's a fuse that you can replace and it will likely fix it
adder I see.
Akuli so there we go, 5.6mA :)
Akuli try swapping the probes
Akuli (now that we are getting good readings...)
adder -0.005
Akuli and in mA mode?
adder But it takes a while to bump from 0.003
adder No, in A mode.
Akuli the A mode is really intended for bigger currents
Akuli so it's probably all sorts of inaccurate at such "small" currents as a few mA
adder 5.66
Akuli should have minus sign
adder Yeah.
Akuli which way around are the probes now?
Akuli which probe points towards power supply positive?
adder Red probe touching long leg.
Akuli yeah
Red probe Black probe Measured current
red alligator clip cable (power supply positive) longer leg (plus leg) of LED 5.6mA
longer leg (plus leg) of LED red alligator clip cable (power supply positive) -5.6mA

Direction of current

Akuli so current comes from power supply positive, goes in through the black probe, out through the red probe, into LED and resistor and back to power supply
Akuli this is what the meter calls negative current
Akuli positive is in through the red, out through the black
Akuli ok?
adder OK.
Akuli as with voltage, the actual movement of electrons is the opposite
adder Gonna take a while while I clear out this in my head.
Akuli :)
adder It's super confusing right now.
adder Got + -, red black, etc.
Akuli black is always -
Akuli red is always +
Akuli meter shows current as going from +(red) probe to -(black) probe
Akuli power supply wants current to flow from its + to -
Akuli does this maybe clarify the conventions?
adder Nope, sorry. :)
Akuli alright :)
Akuli then it'll just take some time getting used to it all :)
adder Yeah.
Akuli but basically, the multimeter in this mode is just an electron counter
Akuli it counts how many electrons are going from black wire to red wire
Akuli while disturbing the circuit as little as possible as it does so
Akuli ok?
adder OK.

LED current for standard LEDs

Akuli so, now you have an idea of what 6mA through an LED looks like
Akuli this depends on the LED
Akuli some LEDs are brighter than others at the same current
Akuli ok?
adder OK.
Akuli standard LEDs similar to the ones you have are usually designed to handle about 20mA without issues
Akuli and for an indicator light you usually need 10mA or less
adder OK.

LED current from datasheet

Akuli for different types of LEDs, you can usually download a datasheet from the website where you buy the LEDs
Akuli and the datasheet says how much it can handle
adder OK.
Akuli here's an example of a datasheet of an LED i used in a project:
Akuli shared a PDF datasheet. Click here to open the datasheet.
Akuli this is a 3-leg LED that can emit red or green light based on which legs you connect
adder I see.
Akuli i used it to show not only whether the device is on, but whether it's in a mode i called "go brrr"
adder Looks pretty Greek right now.
Akuli :)
Akuli let me explain how to find out the important stuff from here :)
Akuli for this 3-leg LED, you probably want to first know what each legs does
Akuli there's basically 2 LEDs inside it, but not 4 legs like you may expect
Akuli so you want to find out how that is
Akuli ok?
adder OK.
Akuli in the picture on the first page, there's a diagram on the bottom right
Akuli each --->|--- symbol is an LED
Akuli (that's actually the symbol of a diode)
adder OK.
Akuli it looks like an arrow, and that arrow is the direction of current needed to make the LED show light
Akuli why are they labeled SYG and SUR, i don't know
Akuli i'd expect RED and GREEN or similar
adder :)
Akuli but anyway, one of those is the red, the other is the green
Akuli so to power on the LED, you would feed in plus from either outside leg (depending on which color you want), and minus from middle leg
Akuli then current would flow in through either outside leg, and out the middle leg, just like it wants
Akuli you also need a resistor
Akuli ok?
adder OK/
adder OK.
Akuli so, how much current?
Akuli that's the only other detail you will likely need to dig out of the datasheet
Akuli scroll down to second page
Akuli "Absolute Maximum Ratings at TA = 25 C"
Akuli absolute maximum means, do not exceed this under any circumstance or the device may break
adder I see.
Akuli usually you want to stay a little bit away from absolute maximums
adder I see.
Akuli and what's the first thing the table says? forward current :)
Akuli forward current, as in current in the direction needed to light the LED
adder OK.
Akuli reverse current would be current in the opposite direction
Akuli so absolute maximum is 25mA
Akuli in my project, i wired the LED so that it gets about 10mA if the power supply is exactly 9V
Akuli i designed the project to work with "9V" supplies, including those that output more than 9V
adder I see.
Akuli so even if the power supply outputs more voltage, the LED will be fine
Akuli and 10mA is plenty to see it
adder Is this something tweaked by a resistor?
Akuli yes!
Akuli let's talk about that :)
Akuli or do you want to keep a short break?
Akuli this might be a good time for a break
adder Nope, we're good.
Akuli alright :)
Note from Akuli:

See the next lesson (resistance) for tweaking a resistor to get the desired LED current.

The important equation of currents

Akuli i'll mention one more fact about currents that is kinda important here
Akuli the important equation for voltages i presented was: V(A -> B) + V(B -> C) = V(A -> C)
Note from Akuli:

I explained the "important equation of voltages" in the first lesson.

Akuli there's a similarly important thing for currents
Akuli it goes like this: sum(currents in) = sum(currents out)
Akuli ok?
Akuli (i'll explain what this says shortly)
adder OK.
Akuli this basically says that electrons don't appear or disappear
Akuli this is usually presented for intersections of wires, but it actually applies much more broadly than that
adder OK.
Akuli almost any component you can think of satisfies this, if you consider the currents through all of its legs
Akuli resistors, LEDs, capacitors, IC chips (e.g. the 555 timer), a whole computer, anything really
adder OK.
Akuli the only exception i know is devices that literally shoot electrons
Akuli like the CRT tube of an old tv or computer monitor
adder OK.
Akuli so if you're not messing around with anything like that, this equation holds for any component :)
Akuli that's why, in the case of 2-leg components, we talk about just one current
adder OK.
Akuli whatever goes in through one leg must come out through the other leg
Akuli the same current
adder OK.
adder This is what law?
Akuli good question
Akuli for intersections of wires, this is kirchhoff's current law
adder OK.
Akuli in my mind, the more general version that applies to anything other than electron shooting devices and such, is just common sense
Akuli if you understand what current is, it should seem obvious
adder OK.